One of the greatest words in the Afrikaans language is ‘kak’. Try as you may, there is nothing in English that comes close. I have just done an assignment in Mozambique on Teté and surroundings. It’s a kak place. It is saved somewhat by a majestic suspension bridge over the great Zambezi River. But, photographing kak places usually results in interesting photographs. One day I ventured north to the isolated Catholic mission at Baroma, some 60 kilometers up river from Teté. As I have suffered for many years from Potholetinnitus (a repetitive dull throbbing sound in the head) the gravel track becomes a laugh. Ha-throb-ha-throb-ha-throb. I first stop in the huge open market outside town. It is surrounded by a Teté rose garden. It’s called this because of all the colourful plastic packets that have blown up against the bushes around the market. Pretty. Goats keep the rose garden trim by eating the roses, sorry, I mean plastic bags. I photograph heaps of dried pink prawns that are almost as high as the heaps of rubbish behind it. There are so many flies on the pink prawns that they look like brown mud prawns. I am feeling ‘lekker’, another great Afrikaans word. It means nice. ‘Nice’, sounds like a bush with real roses. Back along the lekker kak road we meet a truck where the driver is steering with his head out of the window. We stop to greet each other, him in one pothole and me in another. This is called pot-rolling. On the truck I count eight people, a massive load of wood, water canisters, goats, a motorbike and all sorts of other kak. I am happy because the people look so happy. How can people who have so little, be so happy? After a second look at the windscreen, I realise why the driver has to drive with his head out of the window.